Features of the Long Tapered Carbide Burs for auto glass and rock chip repairs
- Durability rating: 4
- Shaft length: 0.830
- Shaft diameter: 0.060
- Hole size: 0.039
- Fits Delta Kits 1/16” collet (Part #14100)
Available in two packaging options:
Replaces Part Number: FG170L
Replaces Part Number: FG170L100
From the Archives
Tech Tips: Drilling and Burs
When do I drill? Which bur should I use? Are carbide burs really better than diamond burs? How about long tapered carbide burs vs round tipped? Those are three widely debated topics that we here at Delta Kits happen to know quite a bit about. By the end of this article, I hope to have cleared up any confusion still out there regarding any of these subjects.
“When do I need to drill a break?” The debate rages on. We at Delta Kits recommend drilling breaks only if you are unable to get the resin to flow into the break, or there are cracks longer than a couple of inches presents. In most cases, resin will be able to fill the break, even when there is very little glass missing from the impact point. Many technicians drill the break to create a large channel so the resin will flow more easily. This does speed up the repair, but it also affects the repair cosmetically. Each time you drill a break; there will be a visible drill hole.
It is up to you to decide if the cosmetic difference is worth the extra couple of minutes. To me, it is definitely worth the wait. But, sometimes you have to drill. Every once in a while you come across a chip that doesn’t have enough glass missing from the impact point to inject the resin. In those instances, just drill through the center of the impact point or air pocket. You may also want to drill the end of long cracks. By drilling the end of a crack, using your slide hammer to pop a mini bull’s-eye, and filling it with resin, you will stop the crack from growing. Remember; do not drill past the first layer of glass. About 1/16 of an inch is as deep as you should ever…. Continue Reading