The EIKO 15W F15T8/BL fluorescent bulb is optimized for ultraviolet output at 350-365 nanometers, a wavelength within the UVA black light spectrum. This 15 watt lamp results in 2.6 watts of ultraviolet at the target wavelength. The bulb is 18 inches long with a 1-inch diameter and a G13 medium bi pin base. Applications for the 15W F15T8/BL include insect traps, photography and resin curing.

This white bulb fits the following Delta Kits UV curing lamps:

15045 12V 15W Long Crack UV Curing Lamp

15050 120V 15W Long Crack UV Curing Lamp

15055 240V 15W Long Crack UV Curing Lamp

Replaces Part Number: 40-4A

Description 15W Black Light UVA T-8 G13 Base

UPC: 03129315526

From the Archives

Tech Tip- Cold Weather and Cracks in Glass

Is the crack volatile? How long has it been there? Is it moving?

The best way to remove moisture from the crack in the glass is with heat. So, although I prefer not to submit long cracks to drastic temperature changes I do heat cracks to remove moisture. The important thing to remember here is that you want to warm the glass slowly. If at all possible, warm the entire windscreen. Once the glass is warm, use a heat gun or a torch to dry out the break.

CAUTION: This is not for the faint of heart. As most of you know I am not a big fan of using a torch or heat gun on damaged glass, but when it comes to long cracks, moisture evaporators just don’t always cut it. However, using a torch or heat gun greatly increases the chance of a crack out, so I strongly suggest that you only use those methods if you have practiced this technique at least a couple of dozen times.

If the crack moves when you apply light pressure near the end or if the customer tells you it has moved within the last few days, I recommend drilling the end and popping a small bullseye at the end with a Delta Kits Slide Hammer. I also recommend drilling any crack over 3″ long as a precautionary measure.

If the windscreen is 70 degrees F or above and there is no water in the crack I would not heat the glass. In fact, if the crack does not stem from a star or combination break that will also need to be filled I would not warm the glass unless it was under 60 degrees F. The reason for this is that as the glass is warmed it expands and if warmed too much the crack may expand and make injecting resin more difficult.

If you do have to warm the glass, do so slowly as stated above. Defrosters work well if you can run the vehicle during the repair process, but you should also warm the outside of the glass whenever possible. Generally, I like using a hair dryer for warming a break, but when dealing with long cracks I prefer using heat lamps or an electric blanket draped across the glass. This allows you to warm the glass slowly and keep it warm during the repair process. However, I must admit that I don’t typically carry an electric blanket or heat lamps. In most cases, I end up positioning my hair dryer to blows warm air across the crack during the repair. Warm the glass before starting the repair and do not apply spot heat to a long crack during the pressure cycle.

I don’t typically use crack expanders unless I expect to have a troublesome spot in a crack. If you have drilled the end of the crack, popped a bullseye and warmed the glass, you may place a crack expander every 6″. Carefully apply light pressure. If the crack has partially closed due to the warming process, the crack expander will open it back up. Making filling with resin easier. Be prepared to remove crack expanders quickly if the crack moves past the termination point. Otherwise, leave them on until the crack is completely filled with resin and then remove them just before curing.

Important things to remember when filling long cracks regardless of weather conditions.

• Be sure you identify the “true” end of the crack.